A Fashionable Stitch: brite
My trousers are my fave BurdaStyle 7447 (now sadly, out of print). Made from a plain weave navy wool and fully lined in bemberg lining and seriously, I can't help it but these are a perfect fit. I would even say that these lovelies defy logic. It's crazy to have a TNT pant pattern like this. Fly front, welt pockets (and one of em's got a flap), side slant pockets and belt loops. Just the way I like em. My top is Newlook 6483. Just a simple shell, but probably the hardest sewing part of my ensemble - I loathe bias binding and that's what I did for the neckline and armholes. Made from silk crepe with silk charmeuse underlining and bias binding.
This friends, is one of my favored looks to sport on a day to day basis and is one of the most comfortable outfits I am now proud to say that I made and own. Interested in reading more? Hop on over to my blog for the latest!
House of Pinheiro: Moderne Mademoiselle Coco meets Rachel
Chanel began designing clothes at a time when women's bodies were constrained by whalebone stays, complicated trimmings and accessories. As a real fashion innovator of her time, she made trousers acceptable and revolutionised womenswear with her choices of fabric. Her slim, androgynous look, stripped from all superfluousness defined the contemporary woman of 1925 and still defines the women of today. My Chanel style self drafted jacket features princess lines curved along the bust line finishing at the arm hole. When designing the jacket I kept in mind the essence of my inspiration. Simplicity, comfort and style. Something that could be used formally when closed or, loose, draped over. Studying her design carefully though archives, some design details were incorporated. The sleeves were fixed high on the shoulder, at the outer tip of the collarbone and seams were fixed into place by overcasting and top stitching. Sewn in a medium weave tweed & cotton lining.
Coco often matched the blouse and the lining to create an harmonic effect. Starting with Papercut Meissa blouse, the plackets been removed and the collar redrafted with a small pleat added. The seams were binded with gingham bias and fold over for a neat finish. My viscose shorts have masculine influence with double pleats, wide leg, wrap waistband, side pockets and a flyer zipper. Used my trouser slopper to correct the crotch length, and Burda Style “Pleated Shorts 07/2012 #127” as a base, removing the waistband in favour of self drafted wraparound belt and a waistband all in one. The side seams pockets highlighted with a rectangular shape topstitching. To avoid overwhelming you with details, check out the series of post about this project over my blog including the outfit constructions techniques.
Alida Makes: Seamstress on a Hot Tin Roof
When I found out this week's challenge was to choose a fashion icon I was kind of stumped. I actually waffled between 3 different icons, and finally chose American actress Elizabeth Taylor. I love the quiet confidence of her youth and the extravagance of her style as she matured, so I tried to speak to both in my outfit.
Speaking of my outfit, let's discuss! I chose to sew a sequined cardigan because the name Elizabeth Taylor is synonymous with sparkle (be it jewelry or embellished clothes!) I used Mouse House Creations Julia Cardigan pattern. I made it short sleeved since Spring is coming up and I want to be able to wear it when the weather warms up. The wrap shirt was self drafted. The shape was exactly the 50's silhouette I was going for, complete with the acute v neck that was all the rage back then. The cigarette pants are made from Burda Patterns High Waist Trousers #119. After years of thinking I could not wear cropped pants, these made me a believer. It just goes to show you how important the right fit is. Head over to my blog for more photos PLUS a completely separate photo shoot!
oonaballoona--The eye of Iris
She's at it again, she's up on the roof, CALL THE PO-LICE. The fashion police, badum ching! COME 'N GET ME. As my chosen icon, Iris Apfel, would say, “If you put something together and it doesn’t look so good, the fashion police are not going to come and take you away. And if they do, you might have some fun in jail.”
I strive to have fun wherever I go, it oughta be a law. That said, I was not having fun with this first challenge, until several days ago when I did a 180 and changed my icon from hot male rocker (Lenny Kravitz) to fabulous nonagenarian. One sleepless night, frustrated with Lenny's descent into black and gray (wha' happen, 1980s Lenny?), I went on a wild image search, during which I *think* I saw a shot of Lenny and Iris hanging together...but it was 4AM and I could have been hallucinating. Figment of my imagination or no, I abandoned my plans and got to cutting. Truth: Iris is the definition of Joyful Fashion.
There's way too much to say about this amazing woman here-- an NY gal, she's been everywhere and done everything, and I don't think she's dressed down a day in her life. There's also way too much to say about this outfit here...short story: already had the (real) spectacles. The faux fur legwarmers with woven trim and separating zips took as long as the princess seamed, vented velvety Wool sheath, which is lined in shocking marigold satin (WHAT ELSE). The coat is By Hand London's Victoria Blazer, lengthened-- between pattern placement and handsewing 8 yards of bias tape, it drove me BANANAS. Luckily it wasn't a long ride to Crazytown, and I know the way well...there's a great bar near Delusional Junction. There's much more ranting & pics over at my blog, oonaballoona, do stop by and have a peek!
Lladybird: Hello Dolly!
I admit, this first challenge gave me a bit of a pause at the beginning. Fashion Icon? Do I even have one of those? I hemmed and hawed, bit my nails, debated... and then it hit me. Dolly Parton! I mean, who *doesn't* love Dolly, amirite? For this challenge, I decided to go with a younger Dolly, circa 1960s-1970s (although my real love for Dolly knows no decades), mostly because I wanted an excuse to make a western-inspired, Dolly-approved outfit. What? At least I'm being honest :)
Grosgrain--The Steam Train Frock
Kathleen here for Grosgrain! I choose Ulyana Sergeenko as my favorite fashion icon. She is a Russian stylist, photographer, blogger, occasional fashion model and designer. She's married to Russian insurance billionaire Danil Khachaturov, has two children and recently started her own fashion brand. Quite impressive bio there, right? She's gorgeous and tends to dress in very long, period nostalgic pieces that are still somehow modern. Her look is very dramatic and always beautiful.
In the next week you can get the pattern for the skirt portion of this outfit on my blog so check back for that if you're interested. It's a three tiered wool/fur circle skirt. Of course, I couldn't use real fur, so my skirt is just faux but I think the warm feel is still very present. I made the waist very fitted and dropped. I've seen this look in a lot of wedding dresses lately and it's very figure flattering when paired with a mid section belt. The fitted portion of the skirt is made from a heavy wool. I also bought boning thinking that the weight of the skirt would pull the wool down but in the end it held its own without any boning assistance!
The pattern I made is actually very simple! It's just SOO huge and overwhelming that it was quite a challenge to piece it all together. Plus, even though the fabric was faux I had to buy about 5 yards so even with a coupon it was kind of pricey. BUT, I think it was worth it because the end look was very dramatic and showy! And how much did I luck out with the weather, eh?! Perfect compliment to fur!